Lake Bogoria is one of those incredibly desolate and beautiful landscapes – a scenic park rather than a wildlife haven. It epitomises the Great Rift Valley sunk down between fault lines, the steep escarpments dropping away to this long green soda lake. The water is so viscous that the reflections of the surrounding cliffs and hills are amazing.
Our favourite approach is from the south end through the sisal plantations of Mogotio and down through Emsos Gate. This little used track is a 4×4 route only. On entering the National Reserve one is treated to a stunning view of the lake, little dik diks flit across the road, and hornbills calls echo up the valley. At the bottom of the hill is a sharp junction to the right that takes you across a small clear-water stream to the giant Fig Tree grove on the very southern tip of the lakeshore – a lovely serene natural cathedral of shade where you can get out and stretch your legs.
Further north and one can drive slowly looking for the elusive Greater Kudu that frequent the headlands. All along the lakeshore are geothermal steam jets – geysers. The best examples of these are halfway up the lake on the western shore. Here the water boils to the surface releasing clouds of sulphurous steam. Often these are surrounded by Lesser Flamingos who feed on these algae rich waters.
Exiting the park via the northern Loboi Gate one can go to the lake Bogoria Hotel. Here they have a hot spa pool fed by one of the hot springs, and there is nothing nicer than immersing oneself in this with an ice cool drink. Each time one surfaces the evaporation off your shoulders has an instantly cooling and refreshing effect. The Hotel also serve snacks, but order well in advance as service is a bit slow.
Float around here until it is time to go home. Bliss. Leave by 4.00 pm and use the main Baringo road to get back to Kembu on the tarmac.